Rome for Expats: Practical Setup Guide
Administrative processes, neighborhoods, and practical considerations for establishing yourself in Italy's capital city.
This guide helps you evaluate Rome as a potential base in Italy.
After reading, you'll understand:
- How Rome compares to Milan in cost, pace, and administrative efficiency
- Which neighborhoods fit different priorities and budgets
- Common pitfalls specific to Rome's expat experience
- Key things to verify before committing to a move
Author: John Spencer
Travel writer and researcher. Focused on practical expat setup planning.
Who This Guide Is For
- Expats considering Rome as their base in Italy
- Remote workers or professionals evaluating central Italy
- People who have already decided on Italy but are choosing between cities
- Those prioritizing history, culture, and lifestyle over business efficiency
At a Glance
Typical monthly costs and access points. All figures are estimates that vary by location, lifestyle, and timing.
Housing
Typical rent (1BR central)
€1,000–1,500/mo
Centro Storico, Trastevere, Prati
Typical rent (1BR outer)
€700–1,100/mo
Monteverde, Testaccio, San Giovanni
Day-to-Day Costs
Groceries (monthly)
€250–400
depends on shopping habits
Public transit pass
€35/mo
ATAC monthly pass
Internet/mobile
€25–45/mo
fiber available in most central areas
Access
Healthcare access
SSN + private options
ASL registration required for public
What to Know Before You Arrive
These factors affect your timeline, budget, and expectations. Understanding them upfront prevents common surprises.
These are the points people most often underestimate when planning a move to Rome.
Roman bureaucracy moves at its own pace
Administrative processes in Rome are often slower than in northern Italian cities. The questura for permit applications and the comune for residency registration can involve significant wait times. Multiple visits are common, and paperwork requirements may vary between offices. Building in extra time for every administrative step is advisable.
The 8-day permesso deadline is strict
Non-EU citizens must apply for their permesso di soggiorno within 8 working days of arrival. Missing this deadline can complicate your legal status. The application starts at the post office, then continues at the questura. Having all documents prepared in advance is essential.
Italian is essential for daily life
While English is spoken in tourist areas and some international businesses, government offices, banks, and healthcare providers typically operate in Italian. Professional translation assistance or an Italian-speaking companion significantly improves administrative interactions.
Afternoon closures affect schedules
Many offices, shops, and services close for several hours in the afternoon (pausa pranzo), typically from 1-4pm. Government offices often have limited public hours. Planning appointments and errands around these schedules prevents wasted trips.
Obtain your codice fiscale before arrival
The codice fiscale (tax identification number) can often be obtained at an Italian consulate before you travel. Having it ready significantly speeds up banking, rental, and healthcare registration processes. Without it, almost no official process can begin.
Neighborhoods & Areas
Rome is organized around its historic center, with distinct neighborhoods radiating outward. The Centro Storico is expensive and tourist-heavy but offers unmatched access to history. Residential neighborhoods like Trastevere, Prati, and Monteverde offer more local character at varying price points. The city's public transit includes metro, buses, and trams, though traffic congestion makes driving impractical in many areas. Neighborhood choice significantly affects daily commute and access to services.
For detailed cost breakdowns, see the Italy cost of living guide.
These notes highlight tradeoffs rather than recommendations; street-by-street variation is common.
Trastevere
Charming cobblestone neighborhood across the Tiber. Strong nightlife and restaurant scene. Popular with expats but can be noisy and touristy. Mid-to-high pricing.
Prati
Residential area near the Vatican with an orderly street grid. Quieter, more organized feel. Good for families and professionals. Mid-to-high pricing.
Testaccio
Traditional working-class neighborhood with strong local identity and food scene. Fewer tourists, more affordable than central areas. Growing expat interest.
Monteverde
Residential hillside area with parks and quieter streets. Popular with families. Limited nightlife but good local services. Mid-range pricing.
San Giovanni
Area near the Basilica with good metro access. Mix of students and professionals. Moderate pricing with reasonable transit connections.
EUR
Modern business district in the south with newer buildings. Corporate feel, good for those working in the area. Less character but more practical.
Setup Priorities
Key areas to research when planning your move. Each involves tradeoffs worth understanding before you arrive.
Visas & Residency
Your visa type affects what you can do in Rome, including work rights and healthcare access. Questura appointments for permit of stay can have significant wait times.
Rome's questura is busy; appointment wait times are often longer than northern cities
View guideBanking
Opening an Italian bank account requires a codice fiscale. Some banks in Rome have branches with English-speaking staff, particularly near business districts.
Traditional banks require more documentation; neobanks offer faster access with limitations
View guideHealthcare
Register with the local ASL (Azienda Sanitaria Locale) once you have residency. Rome has both public hospitals and private clinics with varying English proficiency.
Public healthcare requires residency registration; private insurance bridges the gap
View guideCost of Living
Rome's costs are lower than Milan but higher than southern Italy. Central and historic areas command premium pricing.
Central location costs more; outer areas require longer commutes
View guideCommon Pitfalls & Misconceptions
Issues that frequently affect expats settling in Rome. Being aware of these upfront helps with realistic planning.
Key Things to Verify
Before committing to Rome, confirm these based on your specific situation.
Next steps
- Italy overview — Broader context on Italian bureaucracy and nationwide considerations
- Living in Milan — Compare with Italy's economic capital
- Living in Spain — Compare with another Mediterranean option
- Italy cost of living guide — Detailed budget breakdowns by city
- Opening a bank account in Italy — Account options and documentation requirements
- Italy visa options — Elective Residence, work visas, and other pathways
Related Guides
Explore our topic guides for detailed information on each aspect of expat life.
Sources & References
This guide synthesizes information from official sources and documented expat experiences. Always verify current information directly.
- • Questura di Roma — Permit of stay applications
- • Agenzia delle Entrate — Codice fiscale procedures
- • ASL Roma — Public healthcare registration
- • Comune di Roma — Residency registration (anagrafe)
- • Expat community documentation — Practical experience patterns
Important: This guide provides general information for planning purposes. Neighborhood characteristics, costs, and availability change frequently. Always visit areas in person, verify current information, and consult qualified professionals before making housing or financial decisions. This is not legal, tax, or real estate advice.